Have you all heard about our imperiled Roquefort?
Basically, because the EU refuses to import American hormone-blasted meat – which, if you had a choice, would you? – the Bush administration decided to place a prohibitively high tariff (300%??!!) on Roquefort and other specialty European goods. Not that President Obama can’t undo this ridiculous tariff, but it’s probably not high on his list, you know? “Hmmm, first I’ll fix the economy, make an inspiring speech about it, and then I’ll make sure the people have their cheese!!”
What does this mean for you, cheese-lover? That you may not have much longer to enjoy your precious Roquefort. I know, even pre-tariff Roquefort is a bit on the pricier side (my former employer is selling it at cost in protest, and even then it’s $20/lb), but if you haven’t had A.O.C. Roquefort, go out and treat yourself to a little slice. It is a salty, stanky blue cheese, so this one isn’t for amateurs. If it’s your first time trying Roquefort, pair it with something sweet (like pears or dried fruit) to temper the tanginess. Otherwise, all you need is a warm baguette!
Or if you’re really feeling adventurous, do like me and make Roquefort ice cream!
This recipe is from adapted from dessert god David Lebovitz. If you love ice cream, get his cookbook The Perfect Scoop.
Roquefort-Honey Ice Cream
1/2 cup honey (none of this honey bear stuff, go get yourself some good local honey)
4 oz. Roquefort
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
4 egg yolks
In a small saucepan warm the honey, then set aside. Crumble the Roquefort into a large bowl. Set a mesh strainer over the top.
In a medium saucepan, warm the milk – don’t let it get to boiling. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg yolks, whisking constantly. Scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan. Over medium heat, stir the mixture constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon. This will happen very quickly, so pay attention!
Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cheese. Stir until most of the cheese is melted. Stir in the cream and the honey. Chill custard thoroughly, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For extra sweetness, swirl in more honey at the end of the churning process.
This ice cream is very cheesey – it preserves much of the flavor of the Roquefort, so don’t make this thinking you’re getting a watered down version of the cheese. I served mine with some caramelized pears and my dessert guests loved it – but did note that they didn’t think they could have eaten too much of the ice cream on its own.
So far, I have found the chickens to be largely suspicious, the goats rowdy, and the sheep largely indifferent on the American Masala Farm in New York state’s green and hilly Upstate region. As some of you may know, I will be staying here for the next few weeks collecting eggs, feeding goats, building fences, and potentially clearing paths through the woods with hand tools. Chef Suvir Saran, cookbook author and co-owner of New York City’s Michelin-starred Devi, and his partner Charlie were kind enough to put me up while I learn.
