Fresh out of bed, I was set on doing what I’d done the last few Sunday mornings: whip up buttermilk biscuits. Then I saw @writingherstory‘s tweet about  Lemon-Lavender scones, and was sufficiently intrigued. I went through the ingredient list and thought I’d give it a go even though was out of lemons and fat-free yogurt (well, to be honest I never really have fat-free yogurt).  Lime zest and juice, and homemade creme fraiche would perform well enough as stand-ins.

Coco’s recipe from her Roost blog was well-written and made a really kick-ass, tender scone. The glaze is sweet, limey and compliments the scone very well (the lime zest flavor did not come through in the scones themselves). I usually skip glazes, but this one was worth it. Please see my amendments below:

Lavender-Lime Scones

Makes 6 scones

Based on Coco’s Lemon Lavender Scones from Roost

• 2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 2 tablespoons freshly grated lime zest
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped dried lavender
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 inch chunks and chilled
• 1/2 cup homemade crème fraiche (or yogurt) (Crème Fraiche recipe here)
• 1/2 cup low-fat buttermilk
• 3/4 cup powdered sugar
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Mix first 5 ingredients in a food processor bowl. Add zest and 1 1/2 tsp of dried lavender, and pulse to mix. Add butter to dry ingredients, and pulse until butter chunks are pea-sized. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl.

Combine yogurt and buttermilk in a small bowl. Add to dry ingredients and mix with a wooden spoon until dough comes together.

Coat your hands with flour and pull dough out onto a well-floured surface. Knead dough for a minute, folding and flattening it several times. (The dough will remain quite moist.) Pat dough into a 9- x 4-inch rectangle, about 1 inch thick, and cut dough into 6 equal triangles.

Lift scones onto the prepared baking sheet and bake on center rack of oven for 15 to 18 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool scones on baking sheet for a few minutes and then transfer to a wire rack.

Glaze: Combine remaining 1 teaspoon lavender, powdered sugar and lime juice, and mix with a fork until smooth. Drizzle over warm scones.

Skip is the producer of The Gourmetro. He bakes on cloudy Sunday mornings. Read about his culinary travels through the South as Dan over at ‘Ham Sandwich, see his published works on Aisle 9, and talk with him on Twitter.

Last week Charlie took us to the 119th Washington County Fair, one of an ever-shrinking number agricultural expositions around the country. Growing up I’d been to the Harford Fair but never actually witnessed livestock judging, or a tractor pull, for that matter and tried my best to make up for that. Watching kids pull (and get pulled) animals easily five times their weight was quite a sight.

Most of my morning was spent casually observing the King Arthur Flour Cake contest where four judges had to taste 25 or so chocolate cakes from 8 to 11 a.m. Not a bad job, since I always like to start the day with a bit of chocolate cake myself. The contest’s overwhelming popularity, was, however, one minor detail made the judges’ jobs quite a bit more difficult. Last year there were five entries, this year, as I mentioned, there were about five times that many. Cakes were judged on flavor and their inside/outside textures. A particularly delicate cake with appealing, uniformly applied icing, and a tender crumb, could hope to receive as many as 90 points off the bat.

After the cake contest I was lucky enough to run into Kate Monroe, the 2009 Washington County Dairy Princess (pictured far top-left, with tiara). Elected by a team of dairy ambassadors, Kate’s mission is to educate consumers about Wash. Co. dairy by speaking with the media and educating families about health benefits. At home, Kate has about 30 cows, including 10 Ayrshires for the milking. Above, she was pictured with Lilly Snyder and her holstein Poppyseed. While I’d never heard of a Dairy Princess program before, I had me the Chilton County Peach Queens earlier this summer.

As a light rain was starting, I headed over to the tractor pull arena to eat some fried pickles with ranch dressing and watch giant machines pull 1000-pound weights.

Skip is the producer of The Gourmetro. He liked watching the cow judging more than the tractor pull. Read about his culinary travels through the South as Dan over at ‘Ham Sandwich.

]]> http://www.thegourmetro.net/2009/09/farm-dispatch-the-washington-county-fair/feed/ 3 http://www.thegourmetro.net/2009/09/farm-dispatch-bobs-lunch/ http://www.thegourmetro.net/2009/09/farm-dispatch-bobs-lunch/#comments Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:11:26 +0000 Skip http://www.thegourmetro.net/?p=241

Typically, when given a choice I’ll pick quality over quantity. Luckily enough for me, one does not have to make that decision at Bob’s Lunch. A hungry diner can go in, sit down, have a chat with co-owner Rodney Moore, and within a few minutes begin eating a freshly cooked local Vermont hamburger. We knew we were in for a busy afternoon so we all opted for the Belly Buster, a hulking 1 pound burger with cheese and bacon. Intrepid diners who finish the burger, pickle, and fries are subsequently memorialized for their fortitude (foolhardiness) on a handwritten list. We three completed the burgers within a reasonable period and joined the somewhat immortal ranks. We were not, however, better for it, since we came back to American Masala Farm to muck the barn.

Anyway. If you’re up near Salem, New York around lunchtime, go to Bob’s and have a normal-sized burger. They are delicious and voluntarily on their way to becoming transfat free. Good job!

Skip is the producer of The Gourmetro. Mucking a barn isn’t so bad, just don’t eat a 1-pound hamburger first. Read about his culinary travels through the South as Dan over at ‘Ham Sandwich.

I am not the first to rave about the King. Suvir and Kim have both written love letters to the little pastries. We got to have a quick tour of their kitchen and I was impressed at how they could pop so many donuts out of such a small place. The machinery, a filling-injector, a dough portioner, a proofing oven, a big mixer, and, of course, a cauldron of boiling oil, fills most of the usable area.

In our short time there, we sampled apple fritters, maple glazed local potato doughnuts, a creme-stuffed bismarck, a glazed cherry-plum-filled, and raspberry jam-filled.

The doughnuts themselves defy logic. It would be reasonable for a clear-minded person to assume that since these doughnuts are deep fried, that they would retain some degree of grease. James King’s doughnuts feel greaseless. I’ve been twice already and found it fascinating each time. I hope to go again tomorrow.

If you’re near Cambridge on a Sunday or Monday morning, get to The King’s. They close for the winter, from November to spring. The exact dates are not usually announced, so call for info. Jana says that in the spring her customers begin to have doughnut anxiety, which is probably exacerbated by spring fever.

KING BAKERY AT DOUBLE K FARM
108 West Main Street
Cambridge, NY 12816
Tel: 518-677-3530

Skip is the producer of The Gourmetro. Read about his culinary travels through the South as Dan over at ‘Ham Sandwich.

After clearing about two dozen goats and alpaca out of the barn’s shade, Adam, Dan, and I proceeded to clear out two weeks of, well, muck. Thankfully, heat and humidity were relatively low and the flies stayed with the animals. Luring them out into the field went well for 15 of them, but a handful still had to be forcibly moved. We got used to the smell, as much as that’s possible, shoveled, pitchforked, and scraped 10 wheel barrels, and were left with a relatively clean barn. A thick dusting of lime when down to help absorb moisture, followed by a bit of bedding. All told it probably took us an hour. This entire process would have been much easier if we all hadn’t eaten Belly Busters at Bob’s Lunch (post tomorrow). The giant 1-lb burgers (with bacon and cheese) however local and delicious, were leaden lumps in our stomach through the smelly mucking process. Today we move on to the chicken coop, which Charlie promises won’t be as gross. We’ll see.

Skip is the producer of The Gourmetro. Mucking a barn isn’t so bad, just don’t eat a 1-pound hamburger first. Read about his culinary travels through the South as Dan over at ‘Ham Sandwich.

While Kim Sunee was here, there was a lot of cooking but not much farm work. She left yesterday, and now I expect the heavy labor to begin later this afternoon with a good ol’ fashioned barn mucking. Pictures and commentary to come.

On Sunday, Kim, Charlie, Suvir and I prepared an American Masala feast for a few guests. Among the dishes from his books Indian Home Cooking and American Masala, we had corn curry, mixed raita, Mirchi Kaa Saalan, a pepper curry (one of the spiciest things I have ever eaten. It gave me the sweats), fried chicken, goat curry, warm lentil salad, and an cardamon-pistachio apricot and peach clafoutis. Fantastic meal, wonderful recipes.

I’ll be posting frequently over the next few weeks about my time on the farm, around Washington County, and the greater Northeast.

Skip is the producer of The Gourmetro. As he writes this, he is suffering from an acute case of burger-induced narcolepsy from a local beef Bob’s Lunch belly busting 1-pounder. He got his name on the wall, but he’s a little worse for the wear. Read about his culinary travels through the South as Dan over at ‘Ham Sandwich.

Chilton County peaches are one of the great benefits of living in Alabama. From early June through August, these sweet, drippingly juicy gems make life worth living. For the last few days I have eaten between two and five of them.Whole, sliced, diced, and pureed, with yogurt, thinly sliced prosciutto, and au natural, they are hard to beat.

From my temporary beach office at Seaside, Florida, I pureed four of them for a quick bellini. Since I make them strong, like my mimosas, I used those four peaches with a half-bottle of prosecco with nothing but a mint garnish.

These peaches are pure magic.

Check out my other site, ‘Ham Sandwich, if you want more on the beachy wonderland that is Seaside, Florida.

Skip produces The Gourmetro and is based in Birmingham, Alabama. He also produces ‘Ham Sandwich and Aisle-9.net.

Lately I’d seen a few ciabatta recipes and thought it was time to give it a shot. The biga, the sponge or starter, was particularly distressing but I decided to go ahead with it anyway. From what I had gathered from the 1999 Bon Appetit Ciabatta recipe and the March Cook’s Illustrated (subscription required), this particular bread was not the easiest customer.

After bouts of procrastination and general dread, the biga began. From the outset, it wasn’t behaving as I’d expected. Why did they have me proof the yeast in the food processor? When exactly was it supposed to start forming small clumps. How about one big clump with a few small ones? It would have to do because I was concerned about my food processor getting gummed up. Perhaps I’m too protective of it, but give me a break it was my first grown-up kitchen appliance. My fear turned out to be well-founded: biga got all up inside the blade and  fixed spinner thing. I hope I got it all out.

Feeling somewhat accomplished, I let the biga sit, chilling and covered, for two days until the next move. It didn’t look right. Distress. It never got a “thick oatmeal texture,” so much as a dry unbaked bread texture. Convinced of failure I forged on, dutifully kneading with one hand; making the quarter turns (clockwise, though the recipe didn’t specify); waiting ten, and twenty minutes at a time.

The dough rounded the bend, so to speak, when I turned it out onto the semolina-d cutting board. It finally started looking like dough and my heart lifted. The first dough half to be transferred to the baking sheet did not go willingly (I was stingy on the semolina and ended up manhandling it a bit). The second did, I dimpled both and set them in the waiting oven.

Twenty minutes later I had real bread. Made by my own hand. They cooled and I cut them open to see if Cook’s Illustrated would prove its authority again: they warned of giant air pockets. The first loaf was gorgeous (if I do say so myself): compact but with a nice crust and chewy crumb. The second loaf, however, was one giant air pocket with hardly any crumb. Much more like a pita than anything else. Fifty percent success on my first try isn’t bad on something so alchemistic as bread. I will try the Cook’s Illustrated recipe next to see if adding milk makes it more consistent.

I guess the bottom line is that I’d like to come home to freshly baked bread. I just don’t want to be the one baking it all the time. It was a good experience, and perhaps even medatitive, but I’m not dough-hooked. With my culinary adventures of late, I am even softening to the idea of aspic. Not much, mind you, but it’s a distinct option. (Don’t hold your breath.)

Skip is a producer at The Gourmetro. He lives, of all places, in Birmingham, Alabama where he has fallen in love with his newest kitchen gadget: an ice cream maker. He hopes the food processor doesn’t get jealous. You can read more at bhamsandwich.com and aisle-9.net.

Basically, because the EU refuses to import American hormone-blasted meat – which, if you had a choice, would you? – the Bush administration decided to place a prohibitively high tariff (300%??!!) on Roquefort and other specialty European goods.  Not that President Obama can’t undo this ridiculous tariff, but it’s probably not high on his list, you know?  “Hmmm, first I’ll fix the economy, make an inspiring speech about it, and then I’ll make sure the people have their cheese!!”

What does this mean for you, cheese-lover?  That you may not have much longer to enjoy your precious Roquefort.  I know, even pre-tariff Roquefort is a bit on the pricier side (my former employer is selling it at cost in protest, and even then it’s $20/lb), but if you haven’t had A.O.C. Roquefort, go out and treat yourself to a little slice.  It is a salty, stanky blue cheese, so this one isn’t for amateurs.  If it’s your first time trying Roquefort, pair it with something sweet (like pears or dried fruit) to temper the tanginess.  Otherwise, all you need is a warm baguette!

Or if you’re really feeling adventurous, do like me and make Roquefort ice cream!

This recipe is from adapted from dessert god David Lebovitz.  If you love ice cream, get his cookbook The Perfect Scoop.

Roquefort-Honey Ice Cream

1/2 cup honey (none of this honey bear stuff, go get yourself some good local honey)

4 oz. Roquefort

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

4 egg yolks

In a small saucepan warm the honey, then set aside.  Crumble the Roquefort into a large bowl. Set a mesh strainer over the top.

In a medium saucepan, warm the milk – don’t let it get to boiling.  In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg yolks, whisking constantly.  Scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan. Over medium heat, stir the mixture constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spoon.  This will happen very quickly, so pay attention!

Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cheese. Stir until most of the cheese is melted. Stir in the cream and the honey.  Chill custard thoroughly, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.  For extra sweetness, swirl in more honey at the end of the churning process.

This ice cream is very cheesey – it preserves much of the flavor of the Roquefort, so don’t make this thinking you’re getting a watered down version of the cheese.  I served mine with some caramelized pears and my dessert guests loved it – but did note that they didn’t think they could have eaten too much of the ice cream on its own.

Crisp, tender cassis macaroon

I could not help but write a post on macaroons (macaron in french, where it sounds like macaroni [minus the ee sound at the end]). I have been obsessed with them for a while, making them for myself, and graciously accepting them as gifts. Dutifully, on our first day here Kim brought us to her favorite macaroons, Ladurée.

It is a bit cramped inside, but the pastries and macaroons were gorgeous. The chocolates, the Paris-Brest, and the macaroons, looked perfect. Clean lines and beautiful designs. Unfortunately, I wasn’t allowed to take photos. Even if I could have, they would have been blurry (my canon sd 600 does a number of things well, but low light/no flash isn’t one of them).

Lemon Creme, Cassis, Caramel, Four Berry

Getting back to the macaroons, we ordered lemon creme, cassis, caramel, and four berry. The crust is thin and crisp, the almond inside tender, and the filling sweet (overwhelmingly so). Each flavor was spot-on. I found the cassis a bit sweet, but the lemon creme and chewy caramel were wonderful.

Three days later, as they began to dry out, they began to taste like my macroons. A great success, I think, considering my macaroons are only 3 days away from being as decadent as Ladurée’s. Perhaps I flatter myself.

Still putting up more pictures on flickr. Kim is posting on the trip too.

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Ladurée [map]

21 Rue Bonaparte, Paris France

01 44 07 64 87